Kyoto is a Nice Place

I almost finished an entry about my further adventures in Takamatsu, then clicked the 'Back' button on the browser and that was that. no more entry :(

I'll retype that one later. The short of it was that I ended up using the magic rail pass to get to Kyoto, arriving on Saturday afternoon. On the train I figured out a hostel that sounded good - and has indeed turned out to be rather lovely, not to mention cheap! Its called "Tour Club" and at 2300 yen a night (dorm accom) is worth every teeny little aluminium 1 yen coin.


Shower was bliss after two nights camping, and a lot of cycling around. Ate big, slept like a log and woke up ready to check out Kyoto.


I headed out north along the Kamo River aiming to wander up to a couple of Rinzai zen temples northwest of the city, but in no rush. it was only 8am, so nothing much was open, and the city was relatively quiet. Riverside is wonderful - a whole little scene of its own - by day fishermen gather to fish and chat - under one bridge they literally have a kind of cafe set up - chairs and tables theyve brought along, and an amazing collection of plants and bonsai! they just stay there at night - noone touches them.

I headed through the Imperial Palace gardens, which were lovely, and filled with people playing sports or games or just wandering. I watched a friendly but serious baseball game, which was fun. Lots of laughing and yelling "Play Baaa". Saw the best petanque player ive ever seen - beware the One Armed Man - he's deadly accurate with a cannonball.

My incredible good luck continues, and I wandered into Koto-in completely at random. Well, not totally - the surrounding bamboo forest looked good from the outside - But I certainly wasnt specifically looking for it. It turned out to be the most beautiful, serene and inspiring place ive yet been to in Japan. Its a 'subsidiary temple' of Daitoku-ji which is a large Rinzai Zen temple. I wandered in and felt immediately comfortable and open. I wandered around, but eventually returned to the wide porch, clearly a spot designed for sitting and contemplating the garden. The garden itself, at least the view from the sitting spot, is a masterpiece. Ive never seen anything like it. Designed by a famous tea-master who's name eludes me, sitting looking at it induces a very deep serenity. I just sat for about an hour and a half. When time came to move on, my legs had completely gone to sleep and I had to massage them before I could actually stand. Photos of it fail miserably to do it justice, so I havent included any of the 'sitting spot'. You'll have to make do with my description and the other photos of the temple grounds.
In fact this one will have to be communicated in person when I get back home. E-communication just isn't up to the job. :)

After Koto-in, I visited Daitoku-ji proper - which, to be honest wasnt worth the admission fee, especially after Koto-in, which was free. The one thing it did have that was great was squeaky floorboards. Almost musically so. It must be deliberate. I have a recording which I'll get up on the web some time. It was interesting sitting and listening to how people walked and interacted with it. Some people were completely oblivious. Clomped around with their heads full of other things. Others, perhaps more open to their immediate environment, trod lightly and with curiosity. Others walked as if they were playing a musical instrument :)

Next, I rode on to Ryoan-ji, another Rinzai temple with a very famous rock garden.

The grounds of which were also very beautiful. Japanese maples have to be one of the most beautiful trees. Soft layers of leaves that seem to have their own internal glow when backlit by the sun.



I got to hear zen nuns singing and playing bells at another temple as I wound my way through the back streets towards the city centre again. There really is a temple garden or shrine on every street in Kyoto.


Some gift shopping amongst thronging but happy crowds, then back along the river - At night, the scene is mostly young people strolling and spending time with friends and loved ones, watching the city lights refected.





Thats Kyoto so far...

I do however continue to get a lot of amusement out of the fact that the Japanese, who love rules and regiment, also love nothing more to ignore the same when it suits...