Kyoto is a Nice Place
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I almost finished an entry about my further adventures in Takamatsu, then clicked the 'Back' button on the browser and that was that. no more entry :(
I'll retype that one later. The short of it was that I ended up using the magic rail pass to get to Kyoto, arriving on Saturday afternoon. On the train I figured out a hostel that sounded good - and has indeed turned out to be rather lovely, not to mention cheap! Its called "Tour Club" and at 2300 yen a night (dorm accom) is worth every teeny little aluminium 1 yen coin.
Shower was bliss after two nights camping, and a lot of cycling around. Ate big, slept like a log and woke up ready to check out Kyoto.
I headed out north along the Kamo River aiming to wander up to a couple of Rinzai zen temples northwest of the city, but in no rush. it was only 8am, so nothing much was open, and the city was relatively quiet. Riverside is wonderful - a whole little scene of its own - by day fishermen gather to fish and chat - under one bridge they literally have a kind of cafe set up - chairs and tables theyve brought along, and an amazing collection of plants and bonsai! they just stay there at night - noone touches them.
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After Koto-in, I visited Daitoku-ji proper - which, to be honest wasnt worth the admission fee, especially after Koto-in, which was free. The one thing it did have that was great was squeaky floorboards. Almost musically so. It must be deliberate. I have a recording which I'll get up on the web some time. It was interesting sitting and listening to how people walked and interacted with it. Some people were completely oblivious. Clomped around with their heads full of other things. Others, perhaps more open to their immediate environment, trod lightly and with curiosity. Others walked as if they were playing a musical instrument :)
Next, I rode on to Ryoan-ji, another Rinzai temple with a very famous rock garden.
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The grounds of which were also very beautiful. Japanese maples have to be one of the most beautiful trees. Soft layers of leaves that seem to have their own internal glow when backlit by the sun.
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I got to hear zen nuns singing and playing bells at another temple as I wound my way through the back streets towards the city centre again. There really is a temple garden or shrine on every street in Kyoto.
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Some gift shopping amongst thronging but happy crowds, then back along the river - At night, the scene is mostly young people strolling and spending time with friends and loved ones, watching the city lights refected.
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Thats Kyoto so far...
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4 Comments:
splodge here:
you know, i think that squeaky floor is what's called a "nightingale floor" - it's a security feature, so that ninjas can't sneak up on you. of course, in that ineffable japanese way, it's beautiful and inspiring as well. i can't wait to hear your recording of it.
much love - jstn
of course, we all *know* that the ninjas got over those squeeky floors anyway...I have seen countless of times (on good old SBS) how well they can fly, bounce off the walls and ceiling... never once touching the floor until they're in front of the soon to be kidnapped emperess.... Pfish for security. :-)
BTW. Felix had his hair shorn off skinhead style by relatives over the weekend. He is determined now to grow his hair long to be "just like Ben."
Happy trecking,
Love from us all
A,J,E,F and Katie too today. :-)
c'mon ben, you slack fella! update yer web site - yeah! Saskia and i are having beer! wooooo! (again!)
hello ben! still drunk! we want more! More! MORE! mwahahaha! (i'n so going to regret posting this when I'm sober) lol! tee hee hee hee!
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